To the flat lands!

Cruising around Bassano del Grappa

From sharp, rugged peaks to lush green flat (ish) lands gret day! I heard Italian cyclists singing to themselves, have a new best climb, and couldn't find accommodation again. Was still a great day even if the end was a bit frustrating.

So probably the best start to a day, pretty much 30kms of downhill or flat road to tick off some easy kilometres. Was really quite nice as was not steep, just a little downhill so a bit of soft pushing kept the bike going most of the way. I was looking for a bike shop, but when I got to the one I researched it was closed. Oh well. The knocking wasn't any worse (not necessarily a good sign in itself) so I continued on with the hope of finding another one on the way.

The road descended down to the wonderfully clear dam, and it was dead still water so you could see perfect reflections in it. I know there are places around New Zealand like that but it was the firstt time I had ever seen it myself.

After the dam there is a series of tunnels before you turn off to Passo Croce d'Aune. I was actually quite nervous about tunnels before having little experience with them and not knowing what to expect. So far they have been really good quality roads, quite wide inside, well lit, and have never tasted of smog or anything. Most have been flat or downhill so far but am sure it may be different if I have to go uphill in one for an extended distance.

Once you turn off the road ramps up immediately to 7% or so until you get to the first hillside village on the way up. It is only a short distance so not too bad. Once past that village the road comes down to 2-4% and stays there for some time. This allows you to take in the scenery of the place. Gone is the open ruggedness of Dolomites and you climb through trees that overhang the road. These provide great shade in the increased heat in the area, but at 30 degrees already it was tough.

The road was really nicely maintained, and even of the extremely busy weekend for me, once I turned onto the pass, I think I only saw one car the whole way.

The villages you go through on the way up are quite different to what I had seen recently in the Dolomites - very quaint and small as opposed to grand and touristy. It was quite a nice change to see; a bit more real Italy I guess.

Which comes first, the house or the road?

Once you hit the town of Salzen the road ramps up again to 6-7%, and then from Aune it comes up to 9% for the rest of the way to the top. As soon as you are up there, you can see clearly to the depths of the flat land below you, is just amazing. You also can see the change from brown, rocky, sharp peaks to lush green rolling hills. Is quite the contrast from the previous few days.

The road down the hill was was just awesome! Smooth roads and lovely hairpins, with the added bonus of no traffic. Overall, the whole pass was one of the best I have done so far!

From there I followed the valleys around o the south and west with the intention to get to a town somewhere around the base of the Grappa climb starting in Semonzo (there are nine to choose from, I will explain more tomorrow). That 30kms went by really quickly and I had gone through a few towns but no bike shops and no accommodation. I finally found some in Semonzo itself, but it was closed. I assumed that was because it was still before 3pm and so was its normal midday closing. To kill time nd await the accommodation to open I went to a bar that was open (very surprisingly!). I had noted that, maybe due to the heat (was 35 degrees now) that everything was closed. Lucky I got a bite to eat and drink refill before 1230 as the supermarket closed as soon as I left, and I did not see anything else open at all, even restaurants.

Anyway, I sat there eating my brushetta and drinking my juice until 4pm just to make sure then went to the accommodation, but it was still closed. I thought this may happen. The closed sign on the accommodation was the first I have ever seen here in Italy. It seems the term 'open' here means the business is in operation, not the business is open to customers. So looking at the trusty Garmin I looked for the nearest big town. It was Bassano and only 6kms away so off I went in the hope of finding some accommodation (and bike shop still).

When I got to Bassano I found a very old city. I am so glad I went the extra distance to get here. I forgot all about finding accommodation and just cruised through the old part of town and took it in. In doing so I came across some accommodation but it was full, found a second one and they too were full but the receptionist rang around a couple places until he found a place for me.

To knock it all off, I finally have had genuine lasagne now too. It is a bit different to the way we have it at home, not as layered and not grilled on the top. I liked it! Was every ounce of will power to turn away from maccaroni as well, that is next on the list.

So all round good day even if the knocking problem is still there and the issues with accommodation. It is all part and parcel with traveling if you don't plan each day in advance. I have found some more bike shops (all closed on Sunday), so I will just continue up Grappa tomorrow and work my way back into the mountains and try for finding one on Monday. Soon as I find one that is open I will have a day of rest. Body and legs are still feeling good though, have been going slow and keeping thee heart rate down to not overdo it.

Highlight: The road up to Croce d'Aune, followed by the road down the other side.
Lowlight: That knock still.
Lesson Learned: Away from the tourists I have to plan for food and fluid refills to allow for the 3 hour closed time after midday (it is not called a siesta apparently, it is just a period where everything is closed).