Big sky riding in the Dolomites

Big mountains and a Rifugio

Wow, another big climbing day for me today but I saw up close and personal the Dolomites, which are very much worth going out of your way for if you like that sort of thing.

The day's weather was back to normal - sunny with little if any wind. I headed out after receiving a little farewell gift from my accommodation in Villa Santina, by way of a waterproof cellphone cover, which was nice. Thoroughly ignoring the polite thing to do and reciprocate I high tailed it out of there and headed for the hills. I was starting low (350m) and heading high today (2300m), but had all day to get there.

First thing was first though and I had to get over the rather benign Passo d'Mauria. Was a nice surprise! It was all rather gentlemanly with only 5-6% all the way up. I was really trying hard to keep my heart rate in Zone 2 (low, aerobic, endurance rate) as yesterday I had spent almost 3 hours in Zone 4 (high intensity, close to the threshold where you switch to anaerobic). Basically this means I was trying to go slow so as not to over do it. At 6% gradient I managed to achieve this well so happy with that. I felt strong and my legs didn't feel sore after a few minutes warm up, so this pass was the perfect start to the day and an easy way to gain meters elevation.

There was nothing open at the top when I got there, but maybe this was because it was still before midday. I was hoping to get a little something in my belly and fill up the bottles with water again, but that just had to wait until the bottom of the hill after the pass instead (I had a banana to tie me over). What took my mind away from food though was that as you descend you start to see the mountains change from steep, lush, green mountains to grey, rocky very steep mountains - the Dolomites. They stand out so much and are so much more imposing than the already imposing mountains.

For those unaware, the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site with 18 peaks over 3000m high. As part of the plan, I continued to move toward three of them. First though I stopped into a bar (what we in NZ would call a cafe) and spoke enough Italian to get what I wanted without too much confusion or charades. Awesome!!

Just outside the bar, Dolomites poking their heads out

After Passo d'Mauria all the towns get more and more ski town orientated, an the further away from the pass you get the more expensive they obviously are. The are very old though and you can just imagine how picturesque they would look all covered in snow in winter - brick homes with wooden shutters and cobbled streets. Maybe a trip for later in life?

Onwards, I was expecting a tough climb, and was preparing for it, for the last four kilometers before the top of the Tre Cime. What I was not expecting was for it to get a bit 'exciting' before the town of Misurina where ffor the last 3kms before the town it was also 12%. Actually, it was further than that as once again the sign makers were having a laugh...the signs counted down to a point about 2km before the actual town, including the "0km to Misurina" sign was proudly standing 2kms out.

It was tougher than expected to get there and all I could think about was a milkshake, but I have never once seen one in Italy. I saw a bar and went in and out of the blue there was a sign for frappes (milkshakes). Done. I had two! It was only then, sitting in a table outside with two milkshakes settling in my belly did I realise that Misurina is actually an amazing lake town, very touristy, but very picturesque.

Before getting cold I started for the last 7km up to the Tre Cimes. All day you could see them shrouded in cloud at the very top, and I do not think I every did see them in full. After a small climb and descent you have to go through a toll booth, where once again cycles are free thankfully (EUR25 for cars I think I saw). Not long after the toll booth the gradient comes up to 12-15% and stays there. Once again it was tough, but with so many cyclists going up and down I did get a few complimentary whistles (or 'you are crazy' whistles, unsure). That urged me on. You are still in the trees at this point, but not for long. As soon as you get above the tree line you feel a little bit like going to another planet - light coloured rocks cover the area, and the massive, sharp peaks almost surround you, like an amphitheater.  It actually reminded me a bit like Whakapapa in a way of the Pinnacles that stand out, and the desert, rocky texture to the place.

Out of nowhere though you see cars parked on the side of the road leading up to the Rifugio. You bypass all them and head for the top car park which is the highest point. Was all very busy with people, cars and buses, but I managed to find a semi quiet place and took it all in. Was amazing. Unfortunately pictures or words would not do it justice.

After spending some time up there, sashed in another banana, dried apricots and gummy bears before cominng back down. As it was close to 4pm. the cut off I gave myself, I only went as far as Misurina to find accommodation. I was expecting it to be more pricey, but oh my gosh, three times as much! Didn't matter anyway, they were all full.  So I continued the next 15kms or so to Cortina d'Ampzzo, which was mostly down hill with the exception of Passo Tre Croci. On getting to the town, I went into the first place which only had one room left, but only cost two and a half times as much as last night, and took it.

On talking to the lady at the counter, turns out this is the Italians holiday season but she is disappointed as it is very quiet. Imagine what it would be like if it was busy then!

Anyway, it was a longer day than I would have liked, but man what another awesome day of different things to see.

Highlight: From Misurina up was all just stunningly beautiful.
Lowlight: The last few kilometers before Misurina.
Lesson Learned: I guess there should be something in here about accommodation planning, but will give it another day just to see.