Almost touching snow!

Almost at the top of the Gavia

One day I’m worried about the heat, not too many days later and am worried about the snow. My how things change! Short day today, just up and over the Passo Gavia into Bormio. Along the way I took too long taking photos, was hot and cold at the same time, and saw a pink bike. Didn’t do as much as I wanted today, but as this was due to just wanting to take in all of the Gavia it was well worth the shorter distance covered.

For today the plan had been to come over the Gavia and stay in Bormio for the night, then do the Stelvio the next day. But last night when I was checking a few things, the weather caught my eye. They were expecting snow over the Stelvio over the next couple of days. I thought for a second “oh, that will be nice to cycle in snow”, then the reality hit me and common sense prevailed. So, I thought I would leave it until the morning to decide but was thinking I would try and get over the Gavia and Stelvio today to beat the snow so I didn’t have a forced rest day in Bormio.

After checking the weather this morning the reality hit me and although I could do both passes I wanted to savour these climbs, particularly the Stelvio. Since seeing pictures of her switchbacks I have wanted to do it. So I just left as I normally do and would let things play out as they did.

Getting underway there was a small uphill for the 10kms to Ponte di Legno where the turnoff for the Gavia was. Not a bad wee warm up. With the legs feeling OK, up I went. Around this time I started to see the sprinkling of snow on the tops of the peaks around me. I was concerned about the Stelvio and snow but there was nothing about snow on the Gavia as well. I go excited in the hope at the top there would be some snow to play in.

Is that snow over there?

It was also about this time that I saw a lot of cyclists coming down from the pass with a lot of warm clothing on, as in their whole body was covered including a scarf around their faces. I was still in shorts and top, reasonable in 20 degrees when about to climb a big hill I thought. I took from this it will not be 20 degrees all the way up.

The climb itself is not a fully steep ride, but it is long at around 17kms. You start at 1,200m and work your way all the way up to 2,652m over that distance. The road is quite good until the tunnel (about 4kms from the top) unless you are a car as it is literally one lane wide the whole way up.

Not too much room to maneuvre

The climb starts of fairly benign and then just as the switchbacks start the gradient comes up to 8-10%, but the climb is interesting and the views of the peaks and forest keep you entertained.

As you leave the switchbacks the road just follows the side of the hill until the tunnel. Here you really feel like you are in the mountains; you are above the tree line, tussock and rocks everywhere, snow capped mountains surrounding you. You really are in the alpine environment here.

Next comes the tunnel. It is dark, which I knew and was prepared for, but is also uphill at 8%. Not ideal but luckily it is one of only a few places on the entire pass that is two way for cars, so there is a bit of room. Today was also quite quiet on the roads. In fact, I think it is the first time I have seen more cyclists (maybe 30) than cars and motorbikes. Often there are not many cars but there are always motorbikes, but not so today.

Once through the tunnel the road heads in towards the pass for the remaining 4kms or so. This is where you see the first of the two lakes the pass splits. Apparently legend has it that a boy and girl fell in love, but were from different classes and so ran away up the mountains. Once up there they were caught and turned into lakes, and the pass keeps them separate to this day. They could have been made from geological means as well, am unsure at this stage.

These last kilometres go by quite quick as there is changing and interesting landscape to the top. It is only with a kilometre to go that you actually see the top, and the gradient is quite easy from here so makes for a good finish to the ride.

Pink bike

At the top the snow didn’t quite come all the way down to the pass, but there was remnants that would suggest it would have had I been up there at the crack of dawn to beat the melt. It was certainly still cold enough to snow though I felt. I think Mr Garmin was lying as he thought it was only 10 degrees, or maybe it was the wind chill, but I proceeded to put every piece of clothing on to try and warm up. I also had a plate of spaghetti bolognaise which also helped I think.

So after warming up I braved the cold again and had a wee look around the top. It was really nice up there. The second lake set against the mountain peaks and all that. Was very beautiful. After taking it all in for some time I started to get cold again so thought it best to get going.

The road down was nice once past the first few kilometres of very rough pavement. I once again just took it easy though as I wanted to keep taking in the view on the way down.

When I did finally get down to Bormio and 23 degrees, I peeled of my additional layers and had a look at the time. It was 2pm. I would guess it would take me 2 and a half hours to get up the Stelvio. As I said earlier I did not want to force it and would prefer to take it all in so I decided to stay in Bormio for the night. Maybe the weather report is wrong and tomorrow it will be OK to cycle up the Stelvio, but if not no worries. Gives me time to plan some more and give Rose the once over again.

So was an absolutely great day, and the Gavia is just an awesome ride and well worth it. I am now back on the doorstep of the Dolomites again and will play the waiting game before going up Stelvio – actually this may work out pretty good as I might even get to play in some snow if I wait until this storm passes.

Highlight: Just being up in the alpine environment.

Lowlight: The realisation the snow wasn’t all the way down to the pass.

Lesson Learned: Other cyclists may laugh at you when they see you put on lots of clothes for the downhill, but you are warm and they just have a nylon jacket on you can laugh back.